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Myanmar  

Many centuries ago the first people migrated from China to Myanmar. The Mon settled in Lower Myanmar in the fertile lowlands of the Ayeyarwady River delta. According to official history the Mon capital occupied the area around Thaton in present-day Myanmar. In the third century BC they came into contact with buddhism during the reign of the Indian emperor Ashoka. Many scholars think that Mon merchants introduced buddhism even before this period by bringing back religious objects and relics from their journey to India. 

In the first century BC other people coming from Tibet started to settle in Upper Myanmar. The Pyu settled in the area of the Ayeyarwady River. Their capital was Sri Ksetra. The Pyu had trade relations with neighbouring states and countries. They practised buddhism mixed with hinduism coming from India. When the river silted up in the eighth century AD they moved their capital north to Halin near the trade road from India to China. The Pyu were dispersed or enslaved by Thai invaders from Yunnan who destroyed their capital in the ninth century AD. 

The fall of the Pyu empire caused a power vacuum in Upper Myanmar. The Bamar or Burmans used it to their advantage. In the course of centuries the Chinese forced them to move from northwestern China into a southern direction. They migrated from southern China to the fertile plain along the middle course of the Ayeyarwady River. They came into conflict with the Mon who had built an extensive irrigation system in the area and engaged on improved agricultural techniques. In the ninth century AD the Bamar founded their own empire around the capital Bagan. The empire entered its golden period some two hundred years later.

In the middle of the eleventh century king Anawratha ascended the throne. This was the beginning of the First Burmese Kingdom. He consolidated the kingdom by drawing several regions around it into vassal status and creating the first centralised government. He conquered the Mon empire of Thaton and kidnapped the holy canon of Theravada Buddhism called the Tripitaka. In this period Bagan was embellished with many temples and pagodas. At the beginning of the twelfth century the empire reached the peak of  its golden period during the reign of king Kyanzittha. Later kings ordered the construction of large sanctuaries as well. But the building activities exhausted the royal treasury.  During the reign of king Narathihapati in the middle of the thirteenth century the empire was in decline. A quarter of a century later the Tartars invaded Bagan and the First Burmese Kingdom collapsed.

The decline of Bagan started a period of chaos which lasted for almost two and a half centuries. The Tartars did not mean to station a large and expensive occupation force in Myanmar and withdrew from the area. The country consisted of several belligerent empires. The Shan took control over a large part of Upper Myanmar with their capital in Ava. The Mon founded a new kingdom in Lower Myanmar where Bago became its royal centre. King Dhammazedi was considered the greatest of the Bago kings at the end of the fifteenth century. He was famous for his piety and his wisdom. In this period a major Buddhist revival took place. and the first diplomatic contact with Europeans was made. Between the Shan kingdom and the Mon kingdom was a tiny Bamar empire called Taungoo.

In the sixteenth century Taungoo developed into the Second Burmese Kingdom which lasted for more than two centuries. King Tabinshwehti was the founder. He profited from the continuous struggle between his royal neighbours. First he defeated the Mon in the delta of the Ayeyarwady River and conquered Bago which he declared the new capital of his kingdom. Then he invaded the Pyu kingdom in the south. Later he defeated king Bayinnaung of the Shan empire and took his capital Ava. In the middle of the sixteenth century he united Lower and Upper Myanmar into one state. He also conducted a war against Thailand and conquered the Siamese capital of Ayutthaya. After his death the Second Burmese Kingdom gradually declined. In the beginning of the seventeenth century the Bamar moved their capital away from Bago to Ava. There they chose to live in isolation from the western powers. In the middle of the eighteenth century the Mon dissipated the Bamar from the south and founded their own kingdom in Bago. Some time later they conquered Ava and put an end to the Second Burmese Kingdom.

The supremacy of the Mon did not last for long. One year after its occupation king Alaungpaya of the Burmese kingdom Shwebo took Ava. From here he began a military offensive against the Mon. In a short time he conquered all lost territory. He was the founder of the Third Burmese Kingdom which lasted for almost one century and a half. The king and his successors were very agressive towards their neighbours in Thailand. His son Hsinbyushin moved the capital of the empire to Ava. The later king Bodawpaya founded a new capital in Amarapura. Under his rule the empire reached to the peak of its power. At the end of the eighteenth century the Burmese kingdom bordered directly to the Indian subcontinent which was dominated by the British. Border conflicts at the start of the nineteenth century led to a series of Anglo-Burmese wars which were fatal to the Burmese empire. One of the last Burmese kings was Mindon. In the second half of the nineteenth century he moved the capital of his diminishing empire to Mandalay. He was one of the few Burmese rulers to establish a working relation with the British and adopted modern ideas from the western powers. 

In 1886 the British forced Myanmar to accept its colonial administration. They made Yangon the capital of the country. In this period the economic developments accelerated. The British constructed roads and railways and built factories. Rice cultivation in the delta of the Ayeyarwady River led to the largest export of rice in the world. The administration of the Bamar territories was in direct hands of the British. The minorities in the hills and the mountains however were under the authority of the traditional leaders who recognized British sovereignty. This distinction proved to be of an utmost significance for later political developments. Nevertheless various nationalist leaders known as "the thirty comrades" succeeded in unifying various people in a common struggle against British dominance.  The economic exploitation by foreign people and the the negative attitude of the colonial administration towards the Bamar people led to peaceful demonstrations in the first half of the twentieth century with the participation of buddhist monks. The British answer to the demands of this national movement was some kind of restricted autonomy just before the start of the Second World War. 

On 4 january 1948 the proclamation of an independent Union of Burma was official. The democratic socialist Bogyoke Aung San was to be the new leader for he accepted autonomy for various ethnic groups. However he was assassinated by his political opponents just a few months before the proclamation of independence.  His comrade and political protégé U Nu became the first premier of an independant Burma. Right from the start the new government had to face uprisings from communist rebels and insubordinate ethnic minorities. Hence in the late fifties premier U Nu asked the military chief in command Ne Win to take over until the new elections. The military regime was fairly successful in restoring peace and order. After the elections the new U Nu government was not able to cope with the economic recession and the ethnic separation movement. Once again general Ne Win took over. This time a military coup put an end to fourteen years of democracy. The new regime abolished the parliament and suppressed all political opposition. The new rulers acquired large control over economic and financial matters. They closed the borders and therefore chose for international isolation. This situation continues up to the present day.

Because of its isolation Myanmar has preserved many of its old traditions. This is apparent in the way that people dress and put on their make-up. Most men wear a traditional longyi or sarong. This garment is a single piece of cloth which is tied in a knot around the hips. It covers the lower body and the legs. When the front is tucked between the legs and tied to the back it becomes a short. Most children and women in Myanmar put traditional thanaka on their face. It is a yellow sandalwood-like paste made of the thanaka tree. Its bark is ground on a flat circular piece of stone or kyaukpyin and mixed with drops of water until it becomes a paste. The kyaukpyin has a canal all around to receive the ground paste. After application to the face it dries and becomes a clayey substance. It is used as a combination of skin conditioner, sun block and make-up. A light colour of the skin is still considered an ideal of beauty. 

In their spare time the Burmese enjoy a traditional visit with their family to a pagoda nearby where they have lunch together in the open air. Sometimes they make a trip of several days to a pagoda in another part of the country. When visiting a pagoda they admire the impressive architecture, the sculptures and the paintings which give a creative and colourful expression to their beliefs. They also spend the time to pray for Buddha and to offer a sacrifice for the nats or spirits. It is custom after hymn and prayer to beat a ceremonial drum three times to let the nats or spirits know that they meritoriously praised Buddha. Next they touch the ground with the drumstick to send the message to the earth spirits. The Burmese are very superstitious people. They prefer uneven numbers and try to avoid even figures. They also like their future predicted by a bedin-saya or fortune teller who explains to them the signs of the astrological zodiac. Some people have their horoscope written down and framed in a wooden cadre to treasure it in a special place at home. 

Education in Myanmar also has its traditional apects like the shinbyu or the initiation ceremony for boys in monasteric life. At the age of ten the boys are sent to a kyaung or monastery nearby for education. For the ceremony they are dressed in their finest clothes and driven around in a procession of relatives and other guests. Back at home they are dressed in a simple robe and the hair on their heads is shaven as a sign of their initiation in monasteric life. As kyaungthas they participate in household duties together with the other monks. The others teach them buddhist scripture, chant and prayer. This way they learn virtue, obediance and honesty as well as reading, writing and mathematics. When after many years a young man decides to enter the monkhood he becomes a hpongyi. At this occasion he is honoured by his parents because he chooses an excellent life of meditation and poverty which augments the status of his family. For the Burmese people the monks represent the best and the holiest in human life. As a favour they give them food, clothes and other necessities such as a razor, a cup, a filter, an umbrella or an alms bowl.

The education of young girls also has traditional elements like the nadwin or ear-boring ceremony. The nadwin means that a girl reaches an age where she gets acquainted with the pleasures in the life of an adolescent woman. At the occasion she is dressed in her finest clothes and seated on a pillow at her home. After boring the lobes of her ears she gets a nice set of earrings and other presents from her relatives and other guests who are invited at the ceremony. The nadwin is together with her marriage one of the most impressive events in the life of a Burmese woman. The ceremony however is for many of less importance than the shinbyu or the hpongyi in the life of a Burmese man.  It reveals a discrimination between both sexes which is also apparent in pagodas where access to an extraordinary statue or relic is prohibited to women. 

A large majority of the people in Myanmar is buddhist although remnants of hinduism and animism are still present in their religious customs. Burmese buddhists believe the universe consists of three regions heaven, earth and hell in well-defined order. In the centre of the universe is Mount Myinmo the highest peak in all the world. Round about the sides of this mountain are ranged the levels of heavenly regions where the dewas or heavenly spirits dwell. Far above the seats of these dewas are ranged the seats of the more perfect beings or byammas, one above the other. And far above them are the seats of the sublime beings on the borders of the supreme nirvana. Below the dewa regions of Mount Myinmo are ranges of mountains, girdling the earth in a perfect ring interposed by seas. In these seas are some large and many small islands inhabited by human beings who live at the most a hundred years. Only here Buddha appears to teach the right way of living which enables the people to progress to the heavenly regions and to nirvana. Down below the earth are situated  the regions of hell where people awaits torture and punishment if they behaved badly. Ascending the ladder from deep hells  through earth to heavenly regions, the spirit meets with existences which are not only more blessed in the degree of enjoyment and material happiness, but also correspondingly more free from fleshly desires and sins. Thanks to meditation and contemplation the abstract truth reveals itself in the highest regions where false  persuasions of joy and sorrow become irrelevant.

In the life of the Burmese people spirits or nats from heaven and earth play a prominent role. They believe there is a spirit in every human, animal and thing. Spirits roam the hills, rivers, lakes and rocks. Every person has a guardian spirit. Every house has a home spirit and every village has a communal spirit. Some nats descend from historic persons who died a violent and unjust death. To the pantheon of the nats also belong some hindu gods and buddhist boddhisattvas. All these spirits have got a formal place in Burmese mythology since the rule of king Anawratha. The worship of nats is however in contradiction with the principles of pure buddhism. Buddhist puritans reject the worship of spirits as superstition. For them hinayana buddhism teaches that alone a natural person can work on his own salvation. Nevertheless the supernatural nats are for many Burmese a pleasant addition to their buddhist beliefs. When the spirits are dissatisfied they can cause misfortune. Likewise they can bring fortune when they are satisfied. That is why they bring sacrificial offerings such as incense, flowers, fruit and money to please the nats. They place these gifts on special altars called the nat-sin.

Religion is a main inspiration for architecture in Myanmar. The country has many pagodas, temples, monasteries and other buddhist buildings. Some of them are called paya or “sanctuary”. The name is used for a pagoda or zedi as well as for a temple or pahto. Many sanctuaries were reconstructed in the course of centuries so its style or shape does not always tell its date of origin. Only temples and pagodas were built of permanent materials consisting of fired brick covered with plaster and decorated with stucco relief. That is why they still remain in a reasonably good condition. The area of Bagan is famous for its many religious monuments which are centuries old. Secular buildings like houses and palaces were constructed of wood just like most monasteries. Only few old structures remain with a non-religious meaning. Some wooden monasteries were later copied in brick structures which give an impression of their original shape and style. Only few original wooden monasteries remain. Their date of origin is at most two or three centuries ago. Their woodcarvings express a delicate form of artisanry.

A pagoda is a religious complex with a stupa or zedi in the centre. Most pagodas are built in a basic pattern and situated on top of a hill representing Mount Myinmo. Staircases on all four sides of the hill lead to a platform on top. Chinthes or mythological griffins guard the entrance at the bottom of each staircase. In the centre of the platform is a stupa surrounded by smaller stupas and pavilions or tazaung. The stupa is a solid structure made of brick. Beneath the stupa is a sealed relic chamber conatining a hair, tooth or bone of Buddha. Large stupas have a basis with square, octagonal and circular terracen from the bottom to the top. The dome is built on these terraces. Its shape has only slightly been changed in the course of many centuries. Early zedi were usually hemispherical or bulbous. The modern style is a curvaceous lower bell merging into a soaring spire. A similar type has the same design but it has a ribbed bowl-shaped disc or amalaka interposed bestween the dome and the finial. Another similar type has a bell-shaped dome on a circular base and a box-like relic chamber or harmika interposed between the dome and the finial. The finial is made of a hti or metal umbrella with wind chimes. On top of the hti is a mast with a banner and a diamond. Often the entire stupa is guilded. Its gold colour reflects the light of the sun which changes from bright white-yellow in the early afternoon to soft orange-red in the evening. 

A temple or pahto is a square or rectangular building with one or several buddha statues. There are basically two kinds of temples. The early hollow square type has just one entrance to a vaulted inner area. The interior is dimly lit by small perforated windows. At the back of the wall is a Buddha statue. The trapezium roof transforms into a dome. This type is often called a gu or ku which  means “cave” in Pali. The later central pillar type has a square central pillar with niches on all four of its sides containing Buddha statues. This type has four entrances and is often one or two storeys high. Along the central pillar there are one or more vaulted archways or galleries. The interior is brightly lit by large windows and entrances on all four sides. The square plan of the temple was later modified by having a vestibule or portico, sometimes on one side alone, but sometimes on all four sides. The superstructure above the main hall consists of a number of receding terraces surmounted either by a large stupa or a sikhara which is a spire with a curvilinear form or a less usual pyramidal form with straight sides. 

Burmese sculpture consists primarily of religious temple reliefs and Buddha statues. The earliest remaining Buddha statues are from the Pyu era. At the decline of the Bagan empire many statues have been lost. Artists developed since the fourteenth century a typical Burmese style of sculpture. All fingers and toes of Buddha have the same length and his ear lobes reach to his shoulders. Sculptors picture Buddha in four basic postures: walking (offering refuge), standing (teaching), sitting (meditating) and reclining (dying). Another iconographical key element  is the figure's mudra’s or hand position. The Dhyana mudra or meditation position shows a sitting Buddha with both hands resting palms-up in his lap. In the case of a Bhumisparca mudra Buddha's right hand rests on his knee with his fingers touching the ground while his left hand rests in his lap. This position symbolises his determination to resist evil distractions preventing him from gaining enlightenment. The Abhaya mudra is a symbol of protection which Buddha gives to his followers. In this posture one or both hands extend forward with palms out and fingers pointing upward. This mudra is commonly seen in conjunction with standing or walking Buddhas, and occasionally with sitting images. The Vara mudra shows a sitting or standing Buddha blessing his followers. The fingers of the right hand point downward and the palm of his hand is outward. The Vitarka mudra symbolises the public discourse on Buddhist doctrines. The thumb and forefinger of the right hand hand form a circle with the other fingers curving outward. A sitting posture is most common with these mudras though it is occasionally seen in standing images. The Dana mudra shows a standing Buddha with one or both hands extended forward with palms up and parallel to the ground. It signifies  the offering of dhamma or buddhist teachings to the world. In the colonial period traditional architecture and sculpture were in decline. With the exile of Burmese royalty a cultural stimulus and financial support for the arts disappeared. 

The Burmese theatre or pwe comprises dance and drama amongst others. Its subject is on the one hand based upon the jatakas or the legends of Buddha's life and on the other hand upon the yamazat or the Burmese version of the hindu epic Ramayana. Classical Burmese dance drama originated at the royal court in the eighteenth century. Its roots however were not indigenous. The monarchs of the Third Burmese Kingdom took an interest in dance drama during their conquests in Thailand. There they were charmed by the dancing performances at the courts of their royal neighbours. These performances were influenced by the dances in former Angkor in present-day Cambodia. The most Burmese of dances feature solo performances by female dancers who wear strikingly colourful dresses with long white trains which they kick into the air with their heels. The arm and head movements are all strictly regulated. Each posture and each gesture has a meaning.

Part of the Burmese theatre is the marionette theatre or yokthe pwe which originated at Bagan in the eleventh century. In this period it was not allowed for men and women to act together on stage. Hence marionettes replaced real actors and actresses. Since then the popularity of marionette shows had its ups and downs. In the period of the Third Burmese Kingdom it was very popular at the royal court. At present it has lost much of it glory. Sometimes the military regime does not allow a performance because the puppeteers criticize political abuse and social disorder. The wooden marionettes are about seventy centimetres long. It requires great skill to play a marionette. Some of the marionettes have sixty strings to move every part of the body. In a performance appear many persons including a king, an astrologer, a nat, a hermit and a sorcerer.

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People

The population of Myanmar is very heterogeneous. The regime recognizes more than one hundred different ethnic groups according to locality, appearance, speech, dress, culture, customs and traditions. There are three major groups. The Mon-Khmer came from Central Asia and settled in the central plains of the Ayeyarwady River. The Tibeto-Burmans expelled them to the south and made Bagan the capital of their empire. The Sino-Tai were the last immigrants coming from Indo China. They live in the mountaineous regions in the northeastern part of the country. 

The Mon and the Palaung belong to the first group of  Mon-Khmer people. The Mon were the first immigrants and the founders of modern traditional culture. Later they intermingled with the Burmans and many distinctions have disappeared. They were responsible for the spread of theravada buddhism on the mainland of souheastern Asia together with monks from Sri Lanka who introduced the tripitaka or classic buddhist scriptures. The Palaung live in long houses on stilts. They grow tea and cheroots or Burmese cigars. Many Palaung believe in buddhism and animism. All offerings to the nats must include betel and tobacco. Women's traditional dress is very colourful. They wear a green, violet or blue jacket with a coloured brim and a red striped skirt. Unmarried women wear a black velvet hat resembling a tangerine and decorated with multi-coloured tassels and silver coins stitched around the rim. Married women however wrap their heads with coloured scarves. Some women have embroidered clothes placed on their heads while others wear these clothes as a kind of a shawl to cover the heads. Married women wear a cane belt around their waist. Unmarried girls usually wear huge gold earrings decorated with flowers. There are two types of wooing a girl: going to visit the parents at the girl's house or putting one's hand through the hole in the girl's house and asking for her love. 

The Burmans or Bamar belong to the second group of Tibeto-Burmans. In origin they come from the southwestern part of China. Nowadays most of them live in or near Yangon and on the central plain. The are the largest ethnic group in the country and a have a leading part in the national administration. The official language in education and administration is Burmese. The written language has a distinct origin from the spoken language. While the spoken language has a  Sino-Tibetan origin, the alphabet is based on Pali writings from southern India. The earliest Burmese writings were found on stone inscriptions from the twelfth century in Bagan. The Danu are often considered the result of intermarital relationships between Bamar and Shan. They live in the central high plains in an area without any mountain peaks. Their language is basically Burmese.

The Padaung belong to the third group of  Sino-Tai. They are a small but distinctive minority. The women have huge topknots on the front of their heads secured with bamboo combs. They have bright coloured headscarves, knee-length black inner garment and waist-length outer garment. They also wear brass rings on their calves and neck. Small diameter brass rings are put around the neck and underneath the bigger rings to give strength to the neck. This custom gives them the curious name of long necks or giraffe women. Girls get their first brass ring at the age of six. Every year they get new brass rings until they marry. The long neck is not caused by elongating the vertebra but by lowering the shoulder bone as a result of the heavy weight of the rings. The origin of the custom is not clear. The traditional belief is that the Padaung women wear the rings to remind them of their ancient ancestry to the nagas or mythical dragons. Also the elders give the rings to their female children and grandchildren as a (marriage) present. Some say the rings give them protection against wild animals, especially tigers, as they must work in the jungle far away from home. Others believe that the rings are to prevent the women from being kidnapped or running away. The custom to wear brass rings is now slowly extinguishing and mainly elder women still wear them. The Padaung women wear big earrings in their ears and silver or beads necklaces. There are buddhists as well as christians and animists. 

The Pao or Taung Thu also belong to the third group of Sino-Thai. They live widely dispersed from the mountaineous regions near Kalaw to the regions at the foot of the hills near Bago. Both sexes wrap their heads with towels. The men dress in black baggy trousers and black jackets. The women dress in long black skirts plus long sleeved jackets with black leggings on their calves. These leggings are sometimes wound with silver threads. They wear hairpins and combs plus ear plugs and rings on their fingers. Many Pao believe in buddhism and animisme. Meat is prohibited when making offerings to the nats but preserved fish is the main ingredient. Collective novitation or other religious ceremonies are very grand and widespread. Another popular festival is to send up local made rockets called Luphai festival. There is a unique custom where a roving learned person will come to a village to read the buddhist scriptures. A battery of small brass gongs accompanies the Pao dance. The Pao mainly engage in cultivating tangerines, coffee and shrub leaves for the manufacture of cheroots. They also cultivate wheat, corn, groundnuts, garlic and so on. They are a strong community and very much developed economically. 

Out of the various ethnic groups described in this chapter only the Mon, the Bamar and the Pao have their own written script and language. The Palaung language is based on the Roman alphabet invented by various christian missionaries. The Danu use the Burmese language for communications. The Padaung have only the spoken but no written language.

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Yangon Video Yangon  

A long time ago there was a small settlement called Okkala at the site of present-day Yangon. Legend says the locals built a sanctuary in the fifth century BC to enshrine eight hairs of Buddha. Two local merchant brothers brought these hairs with them when they returned from a journey to India. Later the Mon called the settlement Dagon. It was an important religious centre visited by several monarchs of the First Burmese Kingdom. At the middle of the eighteenth century king Alaungpaya conquered Lower Myanmar from the Mon. At the site of Dagon he built a new city and called it Yangon or “End of Strife”. He turned the city into a major seaport. In the first Anglo-Burmese war the British occupied the city for a short time. In the second Anglo-Burmese war the city fell into British hands again. After their conquest of Myanmar the British proclaimed the city in 1885 the capital of the country. They corrupted its name to Rangoon. In the Second World War Yangon was in Japanese hands. Afterwards the city became the capital of an independent Union of Myanmar.

In a district called Dagon to the northwest of the city centre is the Shwedagon pagoda. It is the most important attraction of the capital. Legend says the pagoda dates from the fifth century BC. Since then many monarchs ordered the restoration of the pagoda which was damaged by several earthquakes. The custom to gild the stupa with goldleaf dates from the fifteenth century. Its present appearance dates from the eighteenth century. Four covered walkways lead up to the platform on top of the hill. The southern walkway is the main entrance of the pagoda. Two chinthes or mythical griffins guard the entrance. The southern steps are lined with a whole series of shops where devotees buy flowers for offerings. Ceremonial paper umbrellas, buddha images, golden thrones, ivory combs, books, antiques and incense sticks are also on sale. The walkway leads to a marble platform. In the centre of the platform is a huge solid stupa surrounded by smaller stupas, statues, temples, shrines, images and tazaung or small pavilions. The main stupa rises first in three terraces, then in octagonal terraces and then in five circular bands. The stupa has a bell design decorated with sixteen "flowers" on the shoulders. The bell is topped by an inverted bowl and above this stand the mouldings and then the lotus petals. A banana bud is the final element of the stupa before the hti or metal umbrella tops it.  Like the lotus petals and the banana bud below the hti is covered with plates of gold. The hti tiers descend in size from bottom to top and from the uppermost tier projects the shaft which is hung with gold bells, silver bells and various items of jewellery. 

On all corners and in all directions of the main stupa in the Shwedagon pagoda there are planetary posts. Each post corresponds with a planet, an animal and a day of the week. Sunday corresponds with the Sun and the Garuda. Monday corresponds with the Moon and the Tiger. Tuesday corresponds with Mars and the Lion. Wednesday morning corresponds with Mercurius and the Tusked Elephant. Wednesday afternoon corresponds with Yahu and the Tuskless Elephant. Thursday corresponds with Jupiter and the Rat. Friday corresponds with Venus and the Guinea Pig or Mole. Saturday corresponds with Saturn and the Naga.  Burmese people believe that their guardian nat or spirit lives in the planetary post which corresponds with the day of the week they were born. Hence they make an offering at the planetary post while burning incense and giving the buddha image a ritual bath. The marble platform also has tazaung or pavilions with seven or nine roofs and  zayat or resting places for pilgrims.

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Bago Video Bago  

Bago is one of the oldest cities in Myanmar. It was reputedly founded in the sixth century AD by two Mon princes from Thaton. They were looking for a proper place to build a new royal capital. One day they found an island near the coast where a male hantha or mythical swan was standing  with a female swan on his back. Taking this to be an auspicious omen they decided to found their royal capital here and called it Hanthawady or “Kingdom of the Swan”. Bago used to be an important seaport. In the eleventh century king Anawratha conquered the city which was to be independent again after the decline of the First Burmese Kingdom. Mon king Binnya U proclaimed Bago in the second half of the fourteenth century the capital of an empire which covered almost all Lower Myanmar. This was the start of a golden age which lasted for almost three centuries despite some short discontinuances. Gradually Bago lost its importance as a seaport because the river nearby changed its course and the city was cut off from the sea. The city never again reached its previous grandeur. Its economic and financial resources declined and its neglected cultural monuments were left to the natural elements. Only late in the nineteenth century they were "rediscovered" from the jungle.

The Kyaikpun pagoda to the south of  Bago is one of the main attractions which remind of its glorious past. The structure consists of four large sitting Buddhas placed back-to-back around a huge square pillar. The statues represent the Buddha of the past and his three predecessors: Gautama and Kakusandha, Konagamana and Kassapa. The monument was built in the second half of the fifteenth century by king Dhammazedi. According to legend four Mon sisters were connected with the construction of the Buddhas. It was said that if any of them should marry, one of the Buddhas would collapse. In the twentieth century one of the four disintegrated in an earthquake. It has since been fully restored.  

To the west of Bago the Shwetalyaung is a huge reclining Buddha. It is the holiest of all Buddha images in Myanmar. The original image was made in the tenth century. In the course of centuries the image was restored many times. It is one of the largest reclining Buddhas in the world. The smiling Buddha stares in a distance over the heads of his devotees, an expression which means that he has  attained enlightenment. The Burmese say the image represents Buddha in a relaxing mode instead of dying, since the eyes are wide open and the feet lie slightly splayed rather than parallel. The head of Buddha rests on a great pillow which was covered with mosaic in the twentieth century. Behind the reclining Buddha is a set of huge painted reliefs depicting the legend of the founding of the image. The king supported a pagan belief. One day he sent one of his sons into the forest for a hunting party. There the pronce met a handsome Mon girl. They fell in love and married each other. The prince promised his wife that she could hold on to her buddhist religion. When they arrived at the royal court the king wanted to kill the girl because she refused to give up her religion. To prove the power of her faith, the girl knelt down in front of a pagan image which disintegrated immediately. This way the girl converted the king to buddhism. Subsequently the king ordered the construction of the Shwetalyaung Buddha.

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Kalaw Video Kalaw  

The little town of Kalaw sits high on the western edge of the Shan Plateau. It was a popular hill station in the British days and it still has an atmosphere reminiscent of the colonial era. In the surrounding hills around Kalaw there are several villages of the Palaung tribe. The Palaung women wear traditional costumes which they wear mainly at special occasions like the tazaungdaing. This festival is very popular in Shan state where people let a paper balloon rise up into he sky which is lit by a candle. At the festival the Palaung villagers get together in their community centre where they welcome foreign visitors. Dressed for the occasion the women wear a traditional costume consisting of a dark coloured jacket and a red striped longyi. Married women wrap their heads with colourful scarves and wear a cane belt arount their waist. 

A trekking to the Palaung villages leads through the hills around Kalaw. The terrain is mostly waste land. Many trees were cut down. The Palaung tribes near Kalaw practice slash-and-burn agriculture. They grow rice and vegetables in the valleys, tea and coffee on the hill slopes. But their main source of income is thanaq-hpeq a kind of leaf which is used for the fabrication of cheroots or Burmese cigars. In the village of Ywathit some Palaung tribals have made a workshop underneath their stilted houses for drying the leaves in a special oven. At the time of the tazaungdaing festival the villagers are not working. They are together in their community centre where they listen to the sermon of a buddhist preacher. Afterwards they have a cup of tea or coffee together and they smoke a good cigar. The women wear traditional clothes consisting of a dark coloured jacket and a red striped longyi. They are eager to show the workshop where they dry the leaves for their cigars. 

The village of Taryaw has approximately three hundred residents. Some Palaung families in this village still live together in a traditional long house. Each family has its own hearth for cooking and separate sleeping compartments for the parents. The children sleep on a mat on the floor. Large families with eight or more children are no exception. The inhabitants of the long house hang maize to the ceiling to let it dry. Beneath the long house pigs and chickens root in the ground looking for food. Only the well to do villagers like the headman have their own house. At the time of the tazaungdaing festival the villagers come together in their community centre. Outside the children have fun with musicians who sing and dance to the beat of drums and cymbals. They lure the other villagers to come outside and have a look. For the occasion the women in this village wear their traditional dress of a dark coloured jacket and a red striped longyi. Unmarried women have a black velvet hat resembling a tangerine and decorated with multi-coloured tassels. However they do not wear them on their heads. Instead they try to sell them to foreign visitors. It is a clear sign that these villagers have discovered tourism as a source of income. 

The Palaung villagers of Hinkagone lead a poor life. At the time of the tazaungdaing festival they keep on working to make a living. The main road through the village is still a quagmire one month after the end of the wet season.  Tree trunks along the road help the villagers to keep their feet dry on the way to their home. The trunks are piled up against the fence of the houses and the courtyards along the road. An old woman sits on the porch of a stilted house mending her clothes, while another woman moves a wooden beam up and down with her feet to stamp wheat stalks. Some young women walk down the muddy road with firewood in a basket on their back. The basket is tied to their forehead with a ribbon for a better balance of the load. The villagers have no time to welcome the foreign visitors. The women do not wear traditional dress despite the tazaungdaing festival.

Around Kalaw there are some Danu villages as well. The Danu have no traditional dress any more. At the time of the tazaungdaing festival the women of the village Ywapu wear a colourful longyi with a floral motif. On their head they wear a scarf  in a matching colour. The older women in the village wear clothes with dark and sober colours. Ywapu is not far from the railway which leads to the station in Kalaw. The villagers make a good use of its unique location to sell their products at the local market of Kalaw. In Ywapu various baskets with cabbages and vegetables are ready for transport to Kalaw. With some good fortune these products are sold at a good price even before they reach the railway station. Many tribals from the surrounding villages walk to the station with merchandise in the baskets on their back like cheroots or cigars, flowers and presents for the children. Among them are many Pao women with or without their family looking for a good bargain at the local market.   

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Nyaungshwe Video Nyaungshwe  

Nyaungshwe is the start for a visit to Inle Lake. The lakeshore and lake islands bear villages on stilts mostly inhabited by Inthar people. This ethnic group has migrated the region from the Tanintharyi peninsula in southern Myanmar. The Inthar settled in the area between the fourteenth and the eighteenth century. Their way of life is closely connected to the lake. They build their houses and pagodas on stilts in the water, grow their fruit and vegetables in floating gardens and harvest fish with cone-shaped nets stretched tautly over wood and bamboo frames. They engage in many home industries like weaving, woodcarving and forging (precious) metal. Many Inthar are buddhists and famous for their religious festivals and boat contests. There are approximately one hundred buddhist kyaungs around the lake and perhaps one thousand stupas. The Inthar are related to the Bamar people and dress just like them. Their customs and traditions are very much the same. They also speak the same language although they use different words for some objects.   

Near Nyaungshwe there are some peaceful Pao vilages. The women wear dark blue or indigo clothes and colourful turbans. The villagers are very religious farmers and always busy. They grow wheat and rice as well as many kinds of fruits and vegetables, tea and coffee, not to mention lots of garlic. The main source of income for them however is the cultivation of leaves for the cheroots or Burmese cigars. Until recently they also cultivated poppies although they never engaged in the opium business. Their fields are clean and their houses are elegant, surrounded by colourful plants and trees with flowers. The interior of their house is sober decorated. On the wall there are pin-up pictures from a calendar or a magazine and a small buddhist shrine. The room has no furniture like a chair or a table. They sit and sleep on the floor. They keep their personal belongings behind a curtain in the bedroom. The Pao are good merchants and tradesmen. The village has a shop and many agricultural companies. 

Far away from Nyaungshwe there are some Padaung villages. The Padaung are an ethnic minority of seven thousand people living only in this area. The women wear heavy brass rings around their neck. They are called long necks because the rings push the shoulder bone downward which seems to make the neck longer. Some Padaung families live separate from their tribal village in or near Nyaungshwe. It is not sure whether they have left their village voluntarily. Local people tell that they take good care of the Padaung families. They welcome foreign visitors in their courtyard  if they pay an entrance fee. Only a small part of these revenues goes to the Padaung families. By selling textiles and jewelry the Padaung women try to make a living. They pose reluctantly in front of a camera and show little enthusiasm. What ever may have been an interesting social experiment has turned into a bizarre tourist attraction.     

The ancient village of Indein on the western shore of Inle Lake used to be the seat of a government official in the time of the Shan kings. The official was a revenue collector of a lesser rank. The village is situated at the foot of a hill. On top of the hill is Shwe Inn Thein at the end of a long covered walkway with over four hundred wooden columns. The collection of weather-beaten stupas from the sixteenth and the seventeenth century has so far escaped restoration. The temple complex has nice stucco reliefs and devas or divine creatures and chinthes or griffins among numerous stupas. Many statues were robbed or damaged in the course of time because of unscrupulous traders and bad weather conditions. The slim design of the stupas is a clear testimony of former Shan architecture. Some of them still have their original plaster decorations while the metal hti on top is torn and twisted. From the temple complex there are great views across the natural environment of the lake down below and the hills up above. Local children have chosen the complex as their playground and are eager to pose for a picture. 

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Mandalay Video Mandalay

Mandalay is a comparatively young city built in the middle of the ninenteenth century. Most of the monuments and buildings are therefore fairly recent. King Mindon , penultimate ruler in the Konbaung dynasty, founded the city in 1857. He fulfilled the alleged prophecy of Buddha that at the foot of Mandalay Hill a new city would arise to become the centre of buddhism. In Mandalay he began the construction of his new capital. The actual shift to the new royal palace took place a few years later. In a short period of time Mandalay actually became one of the most important centre of buddhism in Asia. Its period of glory however was short. Mindon was succeeded by his son Thibaw and in 1885 Mandalay was taken by the British. Thibaw and his notorious queen were exiled to southern India and the city known as "centre of the universe" or the "golden city" became just another outpost of the British empire. The British colonial army occupied the royal palace and turned the compound into a military fort. During fierce fightings in the Second World War the palace within the fort caught fire and was completely burnt out. 

One of the main attractions in Mandalay is the Shwenandaw monastery or kyaung. The Golden Palace monastery used to be a part of the palace complex. It was used as an apartment by king Mindon and his chief queen, and it was in this building that he died. In 1880 his son Thibaw had the building dismantled and reassembled outside the palace wall as a monastery. This is why the building survived the fierce fightings and the burning flames in the Second World War. It is the only original part of the royal palace which still remains today. At present it is a fine example of a traditional Burmese wooden monastery. The building is covered inside and out with carved panels. Unfortunately many of the exterior panels have weathered badly and some of them have been removed. The roof  is also abundantly decorated with wood carvings like devas or divine creatures and hamsa or mythical birds. At one time the building was gilded and decorated with glass mosaics.

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Monywa Video Monywa

Over one hundred kilometres northwest of Mandalay situated on the eastern bank of the Chindwin River is a town called Monywa. HIt is the second biggest town in northern Myanmar and serves as a major trade centre for agricultural produce. Goods coming from India pass through Monywa on their way to other parts of Myanmar. Across the Chindwin River is a system of sandstone caves situated in a cleft in the Hpo Win Daung hills. The hills have probably been occupied since the dawn of human habitation in Myanmar  since fossiled remains of a primitive primate ancestor living thirty million years ago were found here. The caves and the surrounding hills are named after U Hpo Win, a famous alchemist who once lived among them. The caves themselves contain Buddhist statues, wood carvings and murals dating to the sevententh and eighteenth centuries. Some of them may date as far back as the fourteenth to sixteenth centuries. A covered stairway climbs a hill to the main cave shrine, but there are dozens of large and small caves in the area filled with old Buddhas. There are said to be over four hundred thousand images in these and other nearby caves. In the Win Kaba cave several statues of a seated Buddha are placed in a row right at the entrances of the cave.  The cave is guarded by chinthes or mythical griffins carved from the stone of the rock. In the Myint Mo cave decorative mural paintings are still visible behind the Buddha statues.

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Bagan Video Bagan

Bagan sits on the eastern bank of a deep bend of the Ayeyarwady River in the heart of Upper Myanmar southwest of Mandalay. Across fourty square kilometres of plain country stand numerous religious monuments. There are about two thousand of them in all directions. They are different in size and in a bewildering variety of shapes. They are also in varying stages of preservation and disrepair. Some of them are still visited by devotees, a few have become little more than piles of bricks. The monuments in Bagan are the silent witnesses of a a glorious past which lasted from the eleventh century until the fourteenth century. In this period Bagan was the capital of the First Burmese Kingdom and one of the largest religious centres in Southeastern Asia. The construction of temples and pagodas reached its peak. Still it is hard to imagine the grandeur of Bagan in its glorious days. Only the religious monuments made of fired brick covered with plaster and decorated with stucco relief remain. The palaces and houses were made of wood and have been destroyed by the elements. Ironically the use of wood as a material for the construction of houses has led tot the preservation of the religious monuments. By logging trees for the construction of houses and palaces as well as for the heating of brick ovens the plain lost its forest. As a consequence the climate was to become execeptionally dry. These meteorogical circumstances favoured the preservation of the religious monuments made of brick.

The kings who reigned over Bagan during its golden periode were: 
  • Anawratha  1044 - 1077 
  • Sawlu  1077 - 1084 
  • Kyanzittha  1084 - 1113 
  • Alaungsithu  1113 - 1167 
  • Narathu  1167 - 1170 
  • Naratheinkha  1170 - 1174 
  • Narapatisithu  1174 - 1211 
  • Nantaungmya  1211 - 1234 
  • Kyaswa 1234 - 1250 
  • Uzana  1250 - 1255  
  • Narathihapati 1255 - 1287

Temple architecture underwent a development during the Bagan period and it is possible to speak of three distinct periods. The Early Style prevailed from the ninthcentury to the first decades of the twelfth century, a Middle Style developed in the mid twelfth century and a Late Style  prevailed from the late twelfth century until the fourteenth century.  Some scholars term the Early Style the "Mon Style" and the Late Style the "Myanmar Style" on the basis of a parallel development in the language of the inscriptions. The Early Style was inspired by the architectural designs of the Pyu. It is marked by dark and solemn interiors with light provided by perforated windows having lattices of stone or terracotta. The structures have curvilinear sloping roofs in conjunction with terraces in the superstructure. The Middle Style is marked by a period of transition with experiments for a distinct Burmese style of architecture. The Late Style is distinguished by bright and airy interiors lit by high, arched entrances and open windows. There is a visible lift upwards and the temples not only rise higher but double-storeyed structures also appear. In the superstructure the sloping roofs disappear to be replices entirely by flat terraces. Moreover, smaller bricks are used in construction and the voissoir arch is perfected. The Late Style was heavily influenced by north Indian architecture. 

Many temples and stupas are decorated with terracotta plaques and reliefs. These plaques were used not only for decoration but also for education.  They depict scenes from the jatakas with historical events in the former life of Buddha. The earliest plaques were not glazed . Later designs were decorated with bead borders and covered by a layer of green glaze to protect them against bad weather influences. A caption underneath each depiction mentions the name of  the jataka and a number or short text. The exterior decoration of the temples forms an integral part of their architecture. There is much restraint with the vast expanse of the walls usually left bare and ornamentation confined to the plinth, the frieze, the pilasters and the arch pediments.  In particular the ornamentation of the arch pediment is wonderfully alive with a profusion of luxuriant scrolls, makara sea monsters, half-human half-bird kinnari and kinnara, hamsa birds and many other figures. Seen from a distance, the arch pediments seem to be aflame, as if a fiery energy were pouring out from within the temple. In the superstructure there are crenellated parapets and corner stupas decorating the terraces.  

Paintings also embellish the interior walls of the temples and other buildings. They are not frescoes because they were painted on plaster which had already dried. A white lime wash would first be prepared, then outlines sketched to be filled with colour -  predominantly yellow, orange, red and brown - and forms outlined with a clear black or sometimes red line. Generally the ceilings would be decorated with small figures of the Buddha in rows or with celestial beings. The frieze would have a running pattern of foliated designs or of ogre-head pendants below which would be depicted the buddhas of the past. The most important segments of the wall would be filled with small panels depicting the jatakas or with larger panals portraying the final life of Gautauma Buddha. These paintings have added value because they also portray the secular buildings of the period as well as the dress, the ornaments and the furnishings of the time. The lower parts of the walls would be decorated with floral and geometrical designs. Unfortunately many paintings have suffered from the peeling of the plaster behind them, droppings left by bats and soot from cooking fires lit by Burmese refugees looking for a shelter during the Second World War. 

The Ananda temple was built at the end of the eleventh century by king Kyanzittha. The temple heralds the end of the Early Style of temple architecture and the beginning of the Middle Style. The plan is that of a a central square block with four porticoes radiating from the centre. The entranceways make the structure a perfect Greek cross. Each entrance is crowned with a stupa finial. The base and the terraces are decorated with green glazed terracotta plaques showing the victory of Buddha over the demon Mara and his army. Above the central square block rise two tiers of sloping roofs followed by four receding terraces which form a base for the curvilinear spire after a northern Indian sikhar model. Finally a finial and a hti or metal umbrella take the temple up to its highest peak. At the end of the twentieth century the temple spires were gilded on the occasion of the ninehundredth anniversary of its construction. The Ananda is a “central pillar” temple. Inside the main block two vaulted corridors run parallel to each other along the four sides. They are linked together by narrow corridors. Two tiers of small lancet windows along the thick walls provide a dim illumination. Large teak doors decorated with woodcarvings separate the four porticoes from the centre. The block of masonry in the centre, which supports the superstructure above, has a tall arched alcove on each of its four sides. Within these alcoves are standing images of the Buddha ten metres high. Their faces are illumined by light filtering in from dormer windows above. All four images are made of solid teakwood.

The Shwegugyi temple was built in the twelfth century by king Alaungsithu. The temple stands on a high brick platform and can be reached by a flight of steps at the northeast corner. The interior contains a hall and a corridor running around a central mass. The interior has an airy and light design through the use of large doorways and open windows. This is characteristic for a transitional in style between the Early Style and the Late Style period.  Receding square terraces rise above the main structure with stupas at each of the four corners. Above the terraces rises a curvilinear spire or sikhar crowned by a slim stupa. The arch pediments, the pilasters and the plinth and cornice mouldings are decorated with fine stucco carving. The teak doors are decorated with delicate wood carvings and give way to a central pillar with a gilded image of the sitting Buddha. The history of this elegant temple is inscribed on two stone slabs in the inner wall. The Pali inscription records that the construction of the temple took only seven months. The Shwegugyi temple was the place where its builder came to a tragic end after a reign of fifty years. The chronicles relate that, as Alaungsithu lay seriously ill, his son Narathu moved him from the royal palace to the Shwegugyi temple. Alaungsithu recovered enough to ask where he was, but his son hurried to the temple to smother him to death.

The pyramidal Dhammayangyi is one of the most solid temples in Bagan. It is also noted for its fine brickwork, the bricks fitting so close together that there is hardly any space between them. The temple was built by king Narathu as a penitence for killing his father. Three years after his succession to the throne he died by the hands of his father-in-law who was an Indian king seeking revenge for the miserable death of his daughter. In plan the Dhammayangyi resembles the Ananda temple. It is a square with porticoes projecting on all four sides to form a Greek cross. As in the Ananda two tiers of sloping roofs and four receding terraces rise above the main block. But the spire which surmounts the terraces is damaged. Inside two vaulted corridors run parallel along the four sides of the central square. But access is possible only to the outer corridor. Brickwork blocks all entrances to the inner corridor, the corridor which provides for circumambulation of the central block with its images of the Buddha. No-one knows for sure why the passage was blocked off many centuries ago. Local legend says that the work was so demanding that the slave workers filled the inner corridor with rubble in revenge when they heard the king had died. Three out of the four Buddha sanctum were also filled with bricks. The remaining western shrine features two original side-by-side images of Gautama and Maitreya or the historical Buddha and the future Buddha.

The Mahabodhi temple takes both its name and its inspiration from the Mahabodhi temple at Bodghaya in northern India where grows the bodhi tree under which the Buddha gained enlightenment. Bodghaya as a holy place obviously had an attraction for the monarchs in Bagan. The inscriptions record that king Kyanzittha sent a mission to Bodghaya in the eleventh century to repair the Mahabodhi. The delegates of this mission brought back seeds from the bodhi tree in Bodghaya and planted them in Bagan. The Mahabodhi temple in Bagan was built by king Htilominlo in the thirteenth century. The temple consists of a quadrangular block accomodating a spacious prayer hall and a sanctum at the western end. The structure is covered with niches holding seated images of the Buddha. The entrance also has niches with gilded Buddha images. Above the central square block rises a pyramidal spire divided into horizontal shelves with niches holding seated images of the Buddha. Above the spire rises a small and slim stupa. Structures like these were exemplary for the Late Style of Bagan architecture. 

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Pyay Video Pyay

In the second century AD the Pyu built the capital of their empire near the site of present day Pyay. This makes it one of the oldest towns in Myanmar. The town lies on a sharp bend in the Ayeyarwady River. With the rise of Bagan in the ninth century the town lost its prestige. Its main attractions are the ruins of the ancient Pyu capital of  Sri Ksetra. Very little is known about this kingdom or about the Pyu themselves. The earliest Pali inscriptions found here date to the fifth or sixth centuries and indicate the coexistence of Mahayana and Theravada Buddhism. A Chinese chronicle from the seventh century records that there were one hundred buddhist monasteries with bricks of glassware embellished with gold and silver. In later documents of Burmese origin the town is called Thayekhittaya. They state that it was founded in the fifth century BC. In reality however the first Pyu settlers came to this region in the second century AD. Between the fifth and the ninth century the kings in Sri Ksetra ruled the surrounding area. Then decline set in. In the middle of the eleventh century king Anawratha ordered the destruction of the extensive city walls which enclosed the city like a horseshoe. He also destroyed the palace and over one hundred monasteries within the city walls. 

Characteristic for the Pyu stupas is their conical or cylindrical dome which reveals Indian influences and differs from later bell domes in Bagan. South of the city walls is the brick-and-plaster stupa of  Bawbawgyi Paya. It was built in the sixth century and has the earliest cylindrical dome in the area. The solid  zedi is built on five terraces. The top terrace is forbidden for women. Unlike structures of  later centuries the dome has no decorations. Evidence suggests that Bawbawgyi Paya was one of four monuments to mark the corners that delineated Thayekitthaya. Only two others are visible today: Payagyi and Payama.

The Bebe temple near Bawbawgyi Paya is a cube-based structure with a sikhar or mound-like superstructure atop the cubic base. Some sources say the temple was constructed in the tenth century. The temple looks like a prototype pahto for some of the temples at Bagan. Inside the temple is a stone tablet or plaque with a seated image of the Buddha and some of his pupils. Other cube-based pahto in the area include one thought to have been used by a hermit, featuring eight Buddha reliefs along the lower half of the interior wall and a vaulted ceiling of brick. Leimyethna Paya is wider and squatter than the others. Its doorways have been blocked off to prevent destruction by looters seeking valuable relics. The vaulted ceiling is no longer accessible for viewing. It is reportedly supported by a pillar faced with original Buddha reliefs. The sanctuary reveals a stone tablet with a seated image of the Buddha between some structures. 

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Literature

Clark, Michael e.a.                  - “Myanmar (Burma)”, edition in a series of travel guides from Lonely Planet

Peterse, L. en J. Petri               - “Birma (Myanmar)”, edition in a series of travel guides from Dominicus

Khaing, Mi Mi                         - “Burmese Family”, edition from Ava House

Naing, U Min                           - “National Ethnic Groups of Myanmar”, edition from Swiftwinds Books

Myint, Daw Myint                    - “Glimpses of Glorious Bagan”, edited by the University of Yangon

Naing, U Thein                        - “Mandalay Marionettes”, edition from the Garden Villa Theatre in Mandalay

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